Last night, we were so tired when we got into the hotel that we didn’t even ask for sheets - we just crashed on the beds. Plus, the huge amount of money (Rs. 600) we had to pay for the hotel room had really got to us and had put a doubt in our minds if we would be able to keep up with the #150aday challenge. But a good night’s sleep rested our minds and got our resolve was back again. We both agreed that this was just a temporary setback and we would be able to average the extra expense out in the next few days. So, here we were with no intention of staying on in the hotel but with no other place to go to. Also, it being a sunday, we would not be able to get the ILPs (Inner Line Permits) required to enter Mizoram (which was our first destination in our plan). Added to that, there was a call for an Assam bandh (strike and general shutdown of all business) which would make it impossible for us to get the ILPs on Monday and also make it hard to go around the city. So, we decided we would head to Shillong (Meghalaya), which is the closest town to Guwahati.

We wanted to come to Shillong and attend the Bob Dylan fest but this was the only option to get out of the jam we were in. Also, at a little less than 100km, we could aim to cover the distance to Shillong in a few hours (compared to the nearly 24hrs it took us to get from Siliguri to Guwahati - about 400km). So, we packed, wore our rain gear (it is already raining in Guwahati!), ate, packed some food for the way and got directions to NH31. Obviously, the directions we got were for taking direct buses to Shillong, but we were more interested in getting out of the city limits and on to the highway so that we could ask for rides. BTW, here’s an interesting sign which will keep your thoughts in the right place when you are stuck in traffic (G.S road, Guwahati)

Some other interesting wall art we found near the TRP stadium (definitely better than spit marks and other such in the cities I have been too)

The place we got to (after consulting online maps from youknowwho) was Khanapara, near the Agriculture University, south-east of Guwahati. The bus conductors, in typical private-bus-conductorsy fashion mobbed us and wanted to take us to Shillong in their buses - it was easy to fend them off by just ignoring them. So we walked a little distance along the Shillong highway and set up our base for asking rides. It wasn’t easy work - we’d put on our rain gear and it wasn’t raining anymore - instead we were getting baked inside the pant suit. The funny thing (and very irritating) is, there is so much dust on the road and just a little distance away, there is slush from the rains. So we stuck out our thumbs, and waited and waited some more. We had kept a deadline of 4pm after which we would take a bus (after our experience in Siliguri where we started late in the evening). One local who was watching us for some time came up to us and explained the futility of asking rides from trucks here because none of them would stop. We were close to losing hope and just then, a truck on army duty stopped for us!

To say that the driver was garrulous would be a great understatement. I can assure you that I know about all his troubles, the money he makes, how many good deeds he has done and whatnot! Ajit Singhji, a Punjabi driver settled in Assam a really long time ago and was sure that it was god’s will that we had to be at the exact place where we were and he started late that day although he didn’t have to. God’s will or not, he had agreed to take us both to Shillong for Rs. 60 (buses charge this much per person). Of course, added to the deal (which we didn’t know at the time we got in) was that we would listen to his stories as he talked continuously for the 4 hours it took us to get there (Inder escaped some of it by dozing off though!). Pity, we neither got a picture of him nor of his truck.

You are in the hills as soon as you get out of Guwahati towards Shillong. The road is winding, narrow and a little dangerous too. One good thing I have noticed is that there is very less honking on the highway. Although it got dark about an hour after we got into the truck, I saw enough to say that it is b-e-a-utiful! NH31 joins NH40 at Jorabat - the other branch at this junction goes to Manipur. The climb gets really hard after Nongpoh, but our truck and driver made easy work of it all. On the way, Ajitji stopped to get us snacks (he also reduced our carriage fee by Rs. 10!, so we got a ride to Shillong with tea and snacks included at Rs. 50) and off we were. Nothing much to say about the journey after it got dark. But, there is a noticeable mist and chill as we kept getting closer to Shillong. We were both thinking the same - Meghalaya does stand up to its epithet - Scotland of the east!

We got dropped off near the Civil hospital and then walked on to Police bazar where we had a free room waiting of us in a hotel (which we had arranged for in Guwahati) - I will not explain the methods we have used to secure accommodation, etc right now - lest I endanger my future chances :). Once we were in the room, we got right to calling up family and then to writing these long posts. We plan to go around Shillong tomorrow and see the sights, we don’t have a very firm plan but we will be moving to Cherrapunjee soon.

Day’s expenses -

Lunch/packed food - Rs. 110

Ride to Shillong - Rs. 50

Dinner - Rs. 68